An Introduction to Bimini
Excerpted
with permission from the Bimini Cruising Guide
www.biminicruisingguide.com
A couple of miles long and a few hundred yards
wide. Maximum elevation is roughly one palm tree
high. Twin dirt roads optimistically named the King
and Queen's highways. No cruise ships, casinos or
mega-resorts. Plenty of golf carts but no golf
courses. Traffic is defined as a boat anchored in
the way of the seaplane. The island of Bimini has
been called a glorified sandbar. And therein lies
its enduring appeal.
Nestled on the border between the Gulf Stream and
the Great Bahama Bank, the island and nearby cays
provide some of the most sparklingly clear waters in
the western hemisphere. The dazzling neon shades are
as vivid as anywhere in the Caribbean, with
underwater visibilities over 100 feet common.
Discovered in the early 1500's by Ponce De Leon,
Bimini's long history is replete with literary
figures, sport-fishing pioneers and numerous
celebrities. Among them Ernest Hemingway, Adam
Clayton Powell, Martin Luther King, Jimmy Buffet and
many others. But equal billing over the years has
gone to the pirates, rum-runners, ship-wreckers,
outlaws and modern day cocaine cowboys. Indeed, the
island is infused with a certain sense that "things
are just different here."
Yes, Bimini inhabits a wonderful dichotomy. As the
crow flies it's less than 50 miles from Florida. But
between the skyscrapers of Miami and the shacks of
Alice Town stalks the fabled Gulf Stream. The
world's most powerful ocean current, it can be a
benevolent companion or your worst enemy. This
explains much of Bimini's character, physically
close to the US but spiritually a world away.
Bimini
has always had a reputation as a colorful place.
Many would argue crusty is a better description. In
a sense the island is a throwback to the 50's. A bit
boozy and often laced with machismo, it's a place
where small boats square off against the Gulf Stream
and tales of the 'one that got away' are ubiquitous.
A place where no one looks twice at a cold beer
before noon. A place where politicians slink away to
after falling from grace. Or, as in the case of one
would-be President, Bimini is where they go to fall
from grace in the first place.
In
Bimini, Political Correctness
is still just a distant theory.
Bimini
island is actually a misnomer. More correctly "Bimini"
is one island in the Bimini island chain. There are
two main islands, north and south Bimini, and then a
string of islets running south to Cat Cay, a private
island for the rich and famous. About 25 miles north
of Bimini on the edge of the Northwest Providence
Channel lies the haunted island of Great Isaac, its
picturesque lighthouse standing lonely watch over
the nearby waters.
Bimini
can rightfully lay claim to being the birthplace of
modern sport-fishing. The International Game Fish
Association, the IGFA, was essentially born on
Bimini. In fact its first President and Vice
President, Michael Lerner and Ernest Hemingway
respectively, both lived on the island and fished
it's surrounding waters. Deep sea, bottom fishing or
fly casting on the flats - the variety is nearly
endless. It is the ideal fishing destination, with a
story on every dock.
In summer months the winds and seas of the Gulf
Stream typically lay down. It is these favorable
conditions that prompt south Florida boaters to head
across in droves. It's not uncommon to see boats
under twenty feet making the run, including the
author who's crossed in a 17-footer with his 66 year
old father. Indeed Bimini during summer weekends
takes on a festive air of revelry, sometimes
bordering on debauchery.
In
summer it's not uncommon to see boats under twenty
feet making
the run, including the author who's crossed in a
17-footer with his
66 year old father.
But that's only half the story. During the rest of
the year the island is often deserted, with visitors
numbering in the dozens, not hundreds. It is
remarkable to witness the change in atmosphere from
the rowdy summer months.
In terms of hotels and nightlife, Bimini will never
be confused with the any of the "St. Somewhere"
islands. More than a few local buildings are in a
perpetual state of “construction” and we use the
term construction very loosely. The hotels are
generally modest and likewise the restaurants will
never give South Beach a run for its money. Which is
just fine by those who frequent the island. They
come to appreciate its real charms - the beautiful
waters, easy fishing and slightly shady, always
colorful atmosphere. It truly is, as Hemingway
wrote, an island in the 'Stream.
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